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1 India Silk
Plain-weave silks, woven in India on hand looms. Both warp and weft are even threads and the cloth is well woven and has a natural lustre. Very little is exported. -
2 Indian silk
Ix. INDIA SILKIIx. 인도 비단 -
3 Atlas Silk
A wild silk variety obtained from the Attacus atlas. The silkworm spins open cocoons and gives the so-called Ailanthus silk. The fibre is dark coloured and coarser than real silk. Also a silk fabric woven in India of rich coloured yams. -
4 Raw Silk
The French term for raw silk yarns run together without twist. It is reeled from cocoons and used either as it is or when converted into tram or organzine by throwing. ———————— A term applied to the filaments produced by silkworms in the form of cocoons. The term also applies to the threads produced by reeling the filaments from a number of cocoons together. Each filament (bave) consists of two fibres (brins) joined together by gum and the length varies from about 500 to over 1,200 yards. Various counts ranging from 8/10 denier to 20/22 denier are reeled, 13/15 denier is the most usual and this is produced by reeling from five cocoons. It has no twist. There are nine different qualities of Bombyx Mori silk in commerce, whether from Japan, China, Italy or India. They are: - Bons Cocoons, Cocoons Pointus, Cocoons Foibles, Cocoons Doubles, Cocoons Satines Goufflons. Cocoons Ouverts. Cocoons Chiques, Cocoons Taches, Dragles. -
5 Moonga Silk
A wild silk obtained from the genus Antherasa moths. Also known as Muga silk. The natives of Assam make a plain silk fabric from this yarn and embroider it very gorgeously. The colour is a rich gold and is not fugitive, but is a natural fast tint. It is termed a wild silk, but is actually domesticated in Assam and is highly valued by native weavers in Madras, Dacca, Benares and other weaving centres of India. -
6 Antherea Silk
A term often applied to the silk produced by the Antherea mylitta, a wild silkworm of India, which gives the so-called tussah silk. The worms feed on the leaves of the castor-oil plant, and give very large cocoons. The fibre is much longer than from the cocoon of the Pombyx mori, varying from 600 to 2,000 yards in length. The colour of tussah silk varies from a grey to a deep brown. Other wild silks are also frequently given this name (see Antherea) -
7 Ailanthus Silk
Wild silk of greyish or brownish colour, produced by the Attacus atlas in India, which is perhaps the largest moth known. The cocoons are open. This silk is also termed Fagara. -
8 Corah Silk
A light, creamy washing silk; sometimes it is coloured by either dyeing or printing. Made in widths from 30-in. to 34-in., and sold in 7 yard to 10 yard pieces. Made in India from cultivated silk. " Corah " means " raw " and originally these silks were woven in the raw or uncleaned state and had a natural golden colour. When washed in boiling water to dissolve the natural gum they had a creamy white colour. -
9 Fagara Silk
A wild silk, produced by the Attacus Atlas in India. See " Ailanthus Silk." This moth is the largest known and spins open cocoons. -
10 Nagpore Silk
A very soft, thin and pure silk fabric, native-made in India and dyed in all colours. Woven 37-in. wide of cultivated silk yarns in many qualities. -
11 Punjam Silk
The lowest and a very inferior grade of raw silk, imported from China. Also a trade term given by foreigners in Canton to the native-reeled silk from the outer layers of the cocoons. This also applies to India. -
12 Salthi Silk
A raw silk obtained from a tussah silkworm found in Kashar, India, and which is occasionally mixed with eri silk. -
13 Tussah Silk
Wild silk, brownish in colour, produced by the silkworm Antherasa Mylitta. The most important of the wild silks, and imported from India and China. The Chinese variety is of a darker colour than the Indian. Fabrics known under this term indicate that they have tussah silk as a whole or part of their construction. The yarn is generally spun as the bulk of the cocoons cannot be reeled. -
14 Arrindy Silk
Strong raw silk of the eria silkworm in India. -
15 Bara-Poloo Silk
A white univoltine silk of superior quality, reeled in Bengal. The silkworm is said to have been imported into India about 1710. It is gradually being neglected by rearers as very uncertain. -
16 Bengal Silk
A silk yarn hand-made in India. Produced in the natives' household and is very irregular and dirty. Used locally for weaving into plain cloth on hand looms. -
17 Chasam Silk
Silk waste in India produced during reeling. -
18 Desi Silk
An Indian term for wild silk, produced by multivoltine worms of Bengal. The best cocoons are produced in November. It is said the worms were imported from China in 1771 by the East India Company. They are also known as Chota Poloo (Bombyx Fortunas) -
19 Makhtul Silk
One of the coarsest grades of native reeled silk in the Punjab, India (see Punjab Silks) -
20 Nistri Silk
A trade term in Bengal for the Bombyx Croesi, a wild silkworm, introduced from China and yielding 7 or 8 crops of rich yellow cocoons a year, of somewhat larger size than desi. The worm feeds on mulberry leaves and is raised during the hot season both in India and Assam. Also known as Madrassee silk.
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